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Post by douglas on Jul 28, 2022 12:26:02 GMT -5
I was attempting to adjust the regulator voltage as per factory manual but just couldn't get a good reading with my Fluke meter. It just couldn't sync and lock in the voltage. I then did a complete circuit test, all diodes were good alternator windings in ohms were good. As an electrical engineer I thought maybe digital meters just couldn't lock in on the varying voltage. The manual shows a analogue meter being used which I don't have. I checked further and found that the field windings were good at 4 ohms but both leads showed a short to ground. I removed the left cover and oil poured out, the area was oil soaked. I thought damn, did I forget to put in the crankshaft seal in but looking in the parts manual there is no such beast. Do these TX's alternators run in a bath of oil?  I will replacing both the rectifier and regulator with aftermarket electronic ones... So, my question is does the alternator run in a oil bath from the crankshaft?? There appears to be a hole which returns oil to the sump... |
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Post by gonner on Jul 31, 2022 6:52:58 GMT -5
Hi,not so mutch action on this site I've noticed. Cant answer your question at the mo.Will shortly be taking cover off to put starter chain tensioner on. Will let you know what I find!
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Post by douglas on Jul 31, 2022 10:59:18 GMT -5
Hi,not so mutch action on this site I've noticed. Cant answer your question at the mo.Will shortly be taking cover off to put starter chain tensioner on. Will let you know what I find!
Thanks!! I have investigated further and the alternator area looks to be doused in oil running off from the crank bearing as there is no seal. If you look carefully their is a 1/4" hole in the case which allows oil to return to the sump. I think the field windings need to be sealed to prevent oil saturation of the windings. Even though I had 4 ohms in the windings, it still showed a dead short to ground. After I removed the field windings and cleaned all the oil off, the short was gone. If you could, check the ohms on your field windings and then check one of the leads to ground and let me know what is . At this point I am going seal the winding with a coating of liquid epoxy... Thanks Again!! |
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Post by gonner on Aug 1, 2022 9:06:42 GMT -5
Will take readings,,,A thought though,Dont some transformers sit in baths of oil ,for cooling? I'm pretty sure oil is an insulator.
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Post by douglas on Aug 1, 2022 10:35:42 GMT -5
Will take readings,,,A thought though,Dont some transformers sit in baths of oil ,for cooling? I'm pretty sure oil is an insulator. I should have known better but didn't look at the schematics carefully. The two leads from the field windings, green and black, go to the regulator and are in fact have the black lead is ground. Shoulda known!!! I'm still quite sure I will will need a analog meeting to do the reg. adj. Frankly, I will be replacing both the diode pack and regulator with a all in one electronic unit. There are plenty on Ebay for 3 phase installations. This bike has been labor intensive with getting parts has been challenging but it's just about done. I have restored a number of bikes including Honda CBXs, CB400f, Dukati and this bike has been the most difficult. As a sidenote, I see your putting a chain guide in the starter. What I did was take a block of teflon and made a half moon section and attached it to the lower case with a pair of 4-40 screws. It provides a guide to take away from some of the chain slack. |
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Post by gonner on Aug 18, 2022 11:34:58 GMT -5
Havnt taken cover off yet,but when adjusting points on side stand ,steady flow of oil coming out of lower cap that covers the crank bolt used to rotate engine. Indicates to me its full of oil!
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arjen
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by arjen on Aug 18, 2022 14:19:24 GMT -5
I was attempting to adjust the regulator voltage as per factory manual but just couldn't get a good reading with my Fluke meter. It just couldn't sync and lock in the voltage. I then did a complete circuit test, all diodes were good alternator windings in ohms were good. As an electrical engineer I thought maybe digital meters just couldn't lock in on the varying voltage. The manual shows a analogue meter being used which I don't have. I checked further and found that the field windings were good at 4 ohms but both leads showed a short to ground. I removed the left cover and oil poured out, the area was oil soaked. I thought damn, did I forget to put in the crankshaft seal in but looking in the parts manual there is no such beast. Do these TX's alternators run in a bath of oil? I will replacing both the rectifier and regulator with aftermarket electronic ones... So, my question is does the alternator run in a oil bath from the crankshaft?? There appears to be a hole which returns oil to the sump... Yes, they do run in oil. The oil enters the alternator housing from the left main crackshaft bearing and flows back through the little hole into the sump. If you have worn cranckshaft bearings the oil might not flow back quick enough and the space may fill up and push the oil out into the ignition housing. Some cure this by opening the hole a little up by drilling it out to about 8 mm. |
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Post by gonner on Dec 24, 2022 12:05:14 GMT -5
If you could, check the ohms on your field windings and then check one of the leads to ground and let me know what is . At this point I am going seal the winding with a coating of liquid epoxy... Thanks Again!!
My field windings are about 3.6 ohmns and nothing to ground
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