deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
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Post by deathbynissan55 on Aug 2, 2017 9:42:04 GMT -5
Hi everyone, I'm very impressed with the dedication to this bike and the level of detail this information was preserved/updated. I'm a mechanical/computer engineer that just picked this bike up site unseen, Is that aftermarket exhaust? Looks wrapped too? Won't start (my guess is since the inside of the tank is rusty, that the rusty clogged carbs and entire fuel system needs cleaning). Tank is getting acid washed then POR'd, new petcock seals, new plugs, rebuild the mikuni's, change fluids (once to get loose debris, twice for good measure). It ran great a year ago, just before it was put into garage. When i got it, the owner said that bottom oil pan was removed 2 weeks prior (i've owned for probably 2 days now) so I'm hoping nothing important got flash rusted on the inside. Can i use Mobile 1 synthetic 4T oil? Or do i need to stick with conventional 20W40 (might be wrong on that, thought I read it on here somewhere, will verify before i put anything in haha). Do i need any zinc additives or anything? In the diagrams off toby's website and bikebandit.com, i noticed a whole bunch of gaskets or plates that go above this pan. Do these need to be replaced or can you reuse them? I'm sure I'll find out this weekend once I actually get to sit down with this bike in daylight. Thanks for any helps, tips, tricks, advice, anything that you might provide. I appreciate it all. P.S. I'm also building a 1977 Datsun 280z race car, so I'm hoping to get this bike running quick so I can focus on my Datsun again. Attachments:
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Post by tr1ppler on Aug 2, 2017 12:15:21 GMT -5
Others who know these bikes may have better info but I know on other vintage wet clutch rides rotella diesel oil is often used as it doesn't cause your clutch to slip as modern synthetics can. But I'm just taking my tx750 apart now and am very far from it actually running so others will have more wisdom there.
Welcome!
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Post by jayteenz on Aug 2, 2017 15:17:24 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum.
The best thing you can do is read all the information on this site and the old Toby Folwick site including the service bulletins.
All will be answered !
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Post by farmrjohn on Aug 2, 2017 15:55:49 GMT -5
Welcome. Mobile 1 should be fine, I use Rotella T6 5W40 in my '74. It looks like the stock header and down tubes (does it have the crossover bolted to the head?) and then either cut off mufflers or something aftermarket. OEM mufflers are rare but there are some aftermarket copies available (expensive) or others have modified other aftermarket. If those gaskets and strainers are in good shape, I'd reuse them. Do you have the deep sump? That was one of the fixes for the oil frothing back in the day.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Aug 7, 2017 9:29:16 GMT -5
..."It looks like the stock header and down tubes (does it have the crossover bolted to the head?) and then either cut off mufflers or something aftermarket. OEM mufflers are rare but there are some aftermarket copies available (expensive) or others have modified other aftermarket. Has the stock headers and crossover. Has some sort of shorter muffler and slips on and clamps to header. Has exhaust wrap too, no idea what it sounds like and forgot to look for a brand name or anything. ..."If those gaskets and strainers are in good shape, I'd reuse them. Do you have the deep sump? That was one of the fixes for the oil frothing back in the day. I do not have the deep sump, unless its just stuck to the engine and I didnt see that it was a separate component. Can I use non-chlorinated parts/brake cleaner to clean the screen out? Can I actually separate the layers like it shows in the exploded diagram or is it a "once combined dont touch" kind of thing? Prev owner just had the plate and strainers sitting strainer side down in a basket with all the parts he had removed when he was attempting to clean everything.....so hopefully that didnt make it messed up/lose any pieces. If this engine has an external oil tank and filter housing, what's keeping me from just eliminating the plate and strainer all together and just replacing it with a flat aluminum plate with a drain bolt? Obviously I'd have to check the clearance of rotating parts first. Or is this plate technically still acting as a wet sump, I don't remember seeing a pickup tube or even an opening in the strainer for a pickup tube.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Aug 14, 2017 14:05:35 GMT -5
HAHAHAHAHA so as soon as i get everything together and ready to go, after previously testing all electrical components and they all work except the brake switch in the right handle, go to turn it over to prime oil system that I just drained and refilled (using electric start only)and it doesnt work and then blows a fuse (that a prev owner added in), replace it, blows again as soon as I try to start it.......EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL JUST WORKED MULTIPLE TIMES A WEEK AGO AND NOONE HAS TOUCHED IT. The headlight was dim and so was the green light on cluster...so that makes me think something is shorting when it comes to that handle switch we took apart to fix throttle cable or when I was trying to install air box i was stressing some wires a little.......DANGIT....
I'll update when I find out more....kinda want to just remove all electrical and wire it myself with newer voltage regulator and newer style generator.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Aug 23, 2017 10:54:47 GMT -5
*Farnsworth voice* GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! Turns out that my friend pinched a bunch of the wires on the right handle bar switch and was shorting starter switch causing it to blow fuse. Taped the wires that were messed up, put some dielectric grease to keep water out, then lubed up the throttle and reassembled.
Now starter clutch sounds a lil janky, so I'm going to look into that.
On its way to running really soon.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Sept 7, 2017 15:53:02 GMT -5
Ordered Argo's sprag starter clutch since mine sounded like a slushy.
Once it comes, gotta get rotor machined, installed, get tank put on, then should run like a top provided points aren't fu**ed.
Friend has an extra jet kit, ordered some cheapo pod air filters, already basically has straight pipes, should run pretty good after tune.....then maybe replace oil pump seals over winter assuming I dont have to completely disassemble engine to do that cuz when i took the cover off for starter, all the oil in the system emptied out.....pretty sure thats not supposed to happen in a dry sump setup.
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willy
New Member
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Post by willy on Oct 2, 2017 17:23:22 GMT -5
"Bought a '73 site unseen" I did the same thing. At 4k orig miles and at $300. I couldn't pass it up. Look forward to learning about this bike as I want to make it ride again and learn and overcome the recall'ed incidents. Best of luck and look forward to following your progress.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Oct 11, 2017 11:00:05 GMT -5
Got the new Argo Starter Clutch installed. If you wanna see my brief description of how to get it assembled after doing the modification, see the post about Argo's starter clutch design: tx750.proboards.com/thread/28/argos-starter-clutch-replacement?page=1&scrollTo=1500Now trying to adjust clutch since i was dumb and completely unthreaded the adjuster mechanism during disassembly of the left inner cover. Also found out i should install an oil cooler, prolly wait until I get this reliably running first.....my tank still isnt back from place that derusted and will be POR-ing the inside.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Oct 16, 2017 9:57:10 GMT -5
Bike runs great, idle was turned way up for some reason, must have been cuz dirty carbs (before i cleaned them and replaced jets). This is my replacement tank in the meantime hahaha starter clutch works perfect, kick works after 1 or 2 tries cold, cold start switch on mikunis works well. Turn signals blink really fast (not sure how flasher system on this bike works if theres just a standard flasher relay) Not sure what lights are what on the cluster, I'm assuming one is low oil pressure before i start the bike. Also one update i can say is that the oil level is staying at full now, so the gasket i replaced must have been allowing oil to leak past something before. No leaks now, standing or under load. Now just have to machine new oil filter adapter and replace fork seals.....maybe find a lockhart oil cooler.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Oct 27, 2017 10:22:11 GMT -5
Just sent the bike off to get tuned for straight pipes(came with the bike) and pod filters and to get fork seals replaced since i was too lazy to learn how to do them myself hahahaa I've never done them before and it looks a little intimidating, and its pretty important since I'm probably over the weight limit of this bike so I'll just let a professional do it haha.
I didnt do tuning because I hate carbs, and because he knows bike tuning.
I will be running Redline 20W60 4T synthetic (super expensive oil holy crap) per Argo's recommendation because I do not have an oil cooler yet. He made it sound like it should be good forever if I use that oil, but I think I'll try to find oil cooler in the future just to ensure this bike doesnt fail due to oil.
I replaced that left crank case cover gasket when I did Argo's starter clutch, it wasnt leaking after i changed it, but a slow puddle formed after it sat for a week or so.....so I'm really starting to think I'll have to redo those scavenge pump seals unless there was a low spot in the cover that I didnt see that I should have used RTV on or something. I literally just used the OEM gasket and scraped the mating surfaces with a blade. Maybe if mechanic can't find the leak, I'll just rub a thin film of RTV on both mating surfaces then sandwich the gasket.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Dec 22, 2017 9:54:59 GMT -5
Getting excited, the bike is almost done at the shop.
Ended up needing a new caliper tho, cheaper than rebuilding it at the shop, pistons wouldnt come out of the body.
Apparently these stock mikuni's arent good for power so maybe in the future I'll try to find some bigger ones, but since it was there i got them tuned. Got some fuel filters installed too.
Need to get a new flasher relay and possibly condenser.
I was right about needing a little bit of RTV on the left inner cover near the bottom, there some unlevel mating surfaces just barely allowing fluid to leak by.
Shop made me install baffles, so hopefully it doesnt sound lame now.
Was thinking about getting some dual sport tires just for looks, but not sure right now, might wait until summer.
Got some comfortable handle bars instead of those caferacer low profile handlebars and some offroad fork dust covers, completely changed the presence of the bike.
Had my valves adjusted, new drive chain installed (sprockets were still good thankfully), points and everything adjusted.
Still waiting on Argo to get back to me on that oil filter mod so I can remove this silly stock oil filter.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Jan 10, 2018 18:33:44 GMT -5
Argo won't have any filters adapter ready until April because he's building a house or something. So I guess I'll have to make my own, thanks for whoever released the blueprints for them!
Bike should be back Sunday!!!!
I'll make sure to post up new pics.
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deathbynissan55
New Member
Just picked up a '73, impressed with the dedication to this bike, lots of good info on here!
Posts: 35
|
Post by deathbynissan55 on Jan 17, 2018 11:30:27 GMT -5
Sorry for the crappy pics, went right into storage. Some neat pinstriping that was on the donor tank. I got the following done by Moto-fied Cycles and Fabrication in Milwaukee, WI (https://www.motofiedcycles.com): - Carbs tuned with bigger jets and pod filters - Valve Lash Adjusted - Measured compression, both around 160psi - Timing and points gap adjusted - New Chain, properly tensioned and lubed - Oil Pressure tested, +50psi - Tank insides coated with POR tank sealer, petcocks rebuilt and resealed to tank - Added fuel filters - New front caliper and pads and brake fluid - Added exhaust baffles to my straight pipes (still dont know how they sound, hope it doesnt sound lame because he put a lot of effort into them even though I was fine with straight piped lol) - Adjusted clutch and lubed all cables - New Handlebars and grips to get rid of those silly flat ones that dont work for fat people haha. Rerouted all the lines so that they fit correctly as well. - Redid some minor electrical for the main fuse for starting (already converted from glass fuses to mini fuse holder) - Balanced the wheels - Resealed the oil leak that i failed to stop earlier - Replaced fork seals and oil, added nice offroad dust boots. - Cleaned up the side covers and clear coated the tank because he liked the petina on it, I like the pinstriping. Now i need to make the one piece oil filter adapter, put in new style oil filter, then change to the 20W60 oil, then I'll be good for a VERY long time. Might put on different tires too, might wait until tax returns for that.
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