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Post by supercub on Dec 31, 2016 19:27:25 GMT -5
Hello,
I just picked up a barn find 73 TX750. I put a battery in it and get signals, horn, oil, neutral and brake lights. No starter relay, head or tail. Where is the fuse located? Does the engine need to be running to get head and tailights? Do the coils get power from the battery or from the alternator?
Thanks!
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Post by farmrjohn on Jan 2, 2017 11:33:16 GMT -5
The fuse should be right by the battery. When I got my '74 a po had removed the fuse entirely resulting in an unprotected electrical system. The engine does not need to be running to get lights and the coils also are DC. Check the electrical diagrams in the thread above this one tx750.proboards.com/thread/33/electrical-diagrams It sounds like poor connections or broken wires are the issue if you are getting some results from the new battery. |
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Post by supercub on Jan 15, 2017 16:57:46 GMT -5
I have those diagrams. I have a short somewhere. When I posted, I had a bad jumper wire. Now that I have a good connection to the battery, I get everything except head and tail lights but the red wire where the fuse should be gets hot. To start with, I need a schematic for the ignition switch. I can get allof the lights to power up when I jump them individually. I can get the lights on the brown feed by disconnecting the regulator and jumping the brown wire. If I disconnect the reserve box and power up the white, I get a short when I turn on the right dude lamp switch to the dot position.
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Post by supercub on Jan 15, 2017 18:03:49 GMT -5
I would like to try your reserve bypass that you posted, does it work for all of the important lights? It looks like the wiring diagram only describes the ignition switch connections within the 3 pin connector and not the pigtails coming out of it as well.
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Post by farmrjohn on Jan 16, 2017 18:13:33 GMT -5
I would like to try your reserve bypass that you posted, does it work for all of the important lights? It looks like the wiring diagram only describes the ignition switch connections within the 3 pin connector and not the pigtails coming out of it as well. If you're asking about the bypass that I posted, yes, all important lights work: headlight, tail light, brake light, turn signals, oil pressure. Using jumpers with appropriate connectors allows you to maintain the harness without any cutting or splicing. That way you can remove the reserve lighting module entirely, freeing up space under the tank. |
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Post by supercub on Jan 17, 2017 18:57:46 GMT -5
I will do it after I figure out where the short is. Just brought a service manual on ebay. I will pull the ignition switch out and test it in the mean time.
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Post by supercub on Feb 9, 2017 20:16:31 GMT -5
I found two bridged wires at the ignition switch and the wiring going through the right side of the handlebar shorted out to the bar. The only issues remaining are that the tach backlighting comes on in parking mode and no instrument lamps come on in run mode. I went to a drag bar and modified the control housings so the wiring comes out of the bottom housing clamps.
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Post by supercub on Apr 25, 2017 21:01:34 GMT -5
Does anyone know the amp fuse size?
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Post by farmrjohn on Apr 25, 2017 22:20:04 GMT -5
Cross checking the part number for the fuse sent me to this page, which indicates 20 amps. Click on: Fuse picture |
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Post by supercub on Apr 26, 2017 3:54:33 GMT -5
Thanks, I searched the part number, didnt find a rating but then searched for an XS650 fuse, found 20A. On a forum I found a post about adding 10A fuses for ignition, head/tail, and brake light circuits. May be a good idea in case a shirt develops, ignition wont be lost.
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