DIY Electronic Ignition

[farmrjohn]

I've been successful in adapting a DIY electronic ignition project for the XS/TX650 to my 750.  Thanks to mrriggs and this thread tinyurl.com/lw9otyq for the inspiration and help.

The first potential issue I saw was room to mount a dual output coil.  To increase space under the fuel tank I removed and bypassed the Reserve Lighting Unit as mentioned in this thread tinyurl.com/ky75fyt

The next problem was finding a used Toyota distributor.  Since there are no salvage yards nearby, I found one on eBay.  Unfortunately it was not like the one in the XS-650 Garage thread.


I went ahead and removed the distributor shaft with the reluctors.


I then removed the four lobed reluctor from the shaft.  I had previously purchased a used points plate and advance unit via eBay.  The outer diameter of the points cam was larger than the inside diameter of the reluctor.  I was lucky and had someone that had access to the machine tools to turn down the points cam and bore out the relucdtor, as well as grind off two opposing lobes.  They also provided for a set screw to secure the reluctor to the points cam.  I used the points cam and advance unit because I was unable to find an electronic advance, otherwise I would have just mounted the reluctor to the oil pump shaft with no mechanical advance.


At the max attachments for this post, to be continued…

[farmrjohn]

Part Two-

The pickup sensor in the distributor that I got was also different from the one in the inspiration thread.  Fitting it on the points plate and in the points cavity in the crankcase was looking like it would be just a bit difficult.  Even with removing material from the pickup base it did not look like it would fit in the space available.  So, back to eBay to find a different distributor.  The second one was like the one mrriggs used, with the same reluctor.  There was a lot less material on that reluctor and it didn't look like it would fit on the machined down points cam.  However, the pickup sensor dimensions were different than my original one, and with a little base plate material removal it looked like it would work.


The trial fit looked promising, so it was time to solder in the leads from the pickup to the leads from the extra points mechanism that I had.  That way I would still be able to use the existing wiring harness, and the Yamaha points wires had the "gasket" attached to them to pass through the crankcase.  I set the engine with the crank between the two idle timing marks and positioned the reluctor directly under the sensor blade, setting it in position with the set screw.



Since there were no longer any points I disconnected the condensor.  Perhaps the biggest challenge was finding a dual output coil and location for mounting it and the GM HEI module.  Removing the Reserve Lighting Unit helped there.  To start with I used a universal Emglo coil (for Hondas, gasp) since it was relatively inexpensive, and I couldn't find the dimensions for the GM coils used in the inspiration article.  To mount the coil is used 1/8 x 3/4" bar stock from the hardware store held in place with hose clamps.  I should mention that with this project I didn't want to make any modifications from stock that would prevent a return to stock.  To mount the HEI module I used a splice plate, also from the hardware store, cut to shape with a Dremel cutoff disk, and mounted to an original could mounting bracket, using some flat washers as spacers to provide clearance to connect the electrical leads under the center frame tube.  I'm hoping that with the slightly higher resistance coil and the air flow around the splice plate heat build up in the HEI module won't be an issue. 



I should also add that prior to replacing the points I tested the dual output could using the points to drive a Ford TFI module.  That test was a success so I knew the coil and plug wires were good.  When I tried to start with the full Toyota/Gm system in place, there was no ignition.  I checked a plug and it was sparking, so I knew that part was OK, which left timing as the issue.  Mrriggs had mentioned the module is sensitive to the pickup wire attachment, so I swapped the leads, and it fired right up.  I put a timing light on, and idle was between the two marks.  When I increased the rpm, advance was just shy of full advance. There was enough adjustment on the timing plate to get full advance spot on, and idle is still between the two marks.  I have made one longer test ride (140 miles, two stops) and the bike seems to be running better.  Re-starts when warm are easier (like at a gas station), and it idles better when warm as well at stop lights without wanting to cut out.  It's also nice to know that I can go back to stock without much of an issue.

[bigskyforever]

Hey Farmjohn;

Does your gm ignition module include a resistor?

[farmrjohn]

Dec 27, 2015 18:17:49 GMT -5 bigskyforever said:

Does your gm ignition module include a resistor?

I'm not sure what's in the internal circuitry of the module, either the Ford or GMC.  I know the articles I researched suggested either resistor plug caps or plugs to minimize electronic interference to the sensor signal.

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[bigskyforever]

DIY Electronic ignition.

I finally got around building my own reluctor and installing the Toyota pickup coil. I then installed an older generation GM ignition module which are really electronic points. I did install it on a heat sink, 1/4 inch plate of aluminium and used the special heat sink adhesive.

The Toyota pickup coil requires approx. .010 ths. clearance for it to work properly. I hooked the module to a 3.0 ohm dual output ignition coil, from a 1990 Honda Sports Bike.(high quality non-Chinese ignition coil) I adjusted the timing to original factory specifications. Also prior to installing this engine I had installed the Porsche style elephant foot valve adjuster to insure positive and consistent valve clearance.

These modifications have transformed this engine, the power is up, it idles smoother, starts easier and eliminates plug fouling. At this time my only concern is the engine may be running a little lean as it runs so clean. I will be using a wide band oxygen sensor and air/fuel ratio guage to confirm whether there is a lean condition.

Cheers

[Rasputin]

See this video.
My XS used as a test mule for Lucas Rita reluctor, British Leyland ig module and Honda coil.
A very different collection of parts but, seems to work.