bigskyforever
Junior Member
I reside in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I am presently rebuilding a couple of TX`s.
Posts: 87
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Post by bigskyforever on Apr 1, 2016 11:11:44 GMT -5
I believe I bought them from ebay from seller cruzinimage. Seem to work fine. Best you soak them in motorcycle oil overnight before you install them, but you probably already know that.
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Post by albaljeu on Sept 30, 2016 19:40:58 GMT -5
I bought and installed new fibre plates from Cruzin Image. Finding neutral when hot is still a problem. Installed a hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder from a Honda VFR. Clutch lever pull was very heavy with the stock lever and cable set up....my hydraulic conversion reduced the pull considerably and also allowed for smoother starts from a stop. But....finding neutral is still a problem. Not sure what my next step is.
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bigskyforever
Junior Member
I reside in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I am presently rebuilding a couple of TX`s.
Posts: 87
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Post by bigskyforever on Jan 23, 2018 18:23:51 GMT -5
albaljeu What is the maximum stroke you obtained on the slave piston with your modification. Have you taken some photos of the installation. I was thinking of installing a clutch master cylinder from a VTR, but I didn,t think the vtr slave piston would give me the stroke distance. For the rest of us who still use the stock cable and lever, I have found that the pivot bushing on the lever perch does wear very quickly. As the bushing wears it does reduce the stroke length of the shift cable. I know that this will not cure all the woes but when we're fighting for maximum clutch release every little bit helps. Yamaha part number 214-83913-00-00.
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Post by albaljeu on Jan 23, 2018 20:22:54 GMT -5
Sorry big sky, no measurements and no photos. One thing I might try later this year will be to find a master cylinder with a larger bore which should increase the amount of travel of the slave cylinder.
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bigskyforever
Junior Member
I reside in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I am presently rebuilding a couple of TX`s.
Posts: 87
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Post by bigskyforever on Apr 24, 2019 14:13:35 GMT -5
Final word on clutch woes. 1. Adjust the shift claw inside the right hand side cover as per the operators manual. The XS 650 has the same style of lever and you can find an image online. This will center the stroke of your foot lever and allow a fighting chance for the drum to stop at the neutral position. 2.The stock detent spring is approx 1.3 mm too short, I suspect when you shift quickly the spring energy is spent by the time the detent falls into the shift drum divot. I have taken a spring from an original starter drive and inserted it inside the stock spring. You will need to shorten the spring as to make it approx. 2 mm. longer than the stock spring. Go through the gears up and down and make sure it doesn't impede the shifting as too much tension will create a shifting problem.
This will not cure it completely but you will have better control and feel as you pass the drum through and to neutral which will help.
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Post by overseastwinbiker on Dec 28, 2020 8:05:06 GMT -5
For a hydraulic clutch actuator on my TX 750 I have been using the master cylinder as well as the release assembly from a 84 - 87 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 900 / ZX 1000 R. Photos and details see here www.tx750.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&p=9686#p9686Compared to the OEM mechanical system the push bars stroke is increased by about 0.5 mm. That seems to be enough to avoid clutch drag torque problems. Martin
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bigskyforever
Junior Member
I reside in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I am presently rebuilding a couple of TX`s.
Posts: 87
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Post by bigskyforever on Dec 28, 2020 17:40:46 GMT -5
Martin Thanks for sharing your latest clutch upgrade. Is there a reason you cut out the large surface area other than wanting it to look a little prettier?
Did you have to change the length of the original clutch rod?
bigskyforever
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Post by overseastwinbiker on Dec 29, 2020 16:24:13 GMT -5
Hi, I'm not quite sure I got your question about he surface cut out. But if you are refering to the cutout section of the bracket that was just to reduce weight. The long arm does not need much strength to support the clutch disengaging forces.
Whereas, I do not know how difficult ist is to understand my German description for non native speakers, the mounting point on the bracket which is encircled in red has deformed in a first test in a way that the clutch didn't disengage at all. As I didn't want to have a strength improved part worked on I had to improvice the support bracket thats fixed under one of the screws of the generator cover. It prevents that point from moving outwards. For new brackets I would have chosen about 3.5 to 4 mm sheet steel instead of 3 mm aluminum sheet that I was using for that first part.
I do not have the exact dimensions without disassembling but with a rough guess the piston of the hydraulic release assembly is located about 5 to 10 mm 'deeper' in the engine housing than the OEM ball screw assembly. So I had to use a shorter rod. The hydraulic system is compensating small changes of rod length caused by different working temperatures so a rod cut from a steel bar with the correct diameter is just working fine.
Martin
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bigskyforever
Junior Member
I reside in Edmonton Alberta Canada. I am presently rebuilding a couple of TX`s.
Posts: 87
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Post by bigskyforever on Jan 8, 2022 19:50:03 GMT -5
Just another clutch post comment. This summer I was working on a SR500 Yamaha with a clutch release issue. New discs and low mileage bike with a very good clutch carrier. I was having releasing issues and after the second tear down, I took out my round file(chain saw file) The new discs were cut rough where they sit on the clutch carrier. I used my round file on both of the cut sides. The idea behind this is to reduce the surface area that sits on the carrier and removing the rough edges should do no harm. When I got it back on the road it was evident that this was one sweet clutch, smooth release and probably better than the original. This little touch might not solve the neutral issue but all the old TX 750 clutch carriers have scarring on the carrier and flat filling alone won't remove all of it. Having a little less resistance on the discs certainly won't hurt. So give it a try on any next clutch overhaul.
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